Trail notes · since 2019
Go further. Carry less.
Thru-hikes, summits and nights under the stars — with honest gear lists, real permit tips and the routes we’d do again tomorrow.
Peaks & trails
Everywhere the boots have been
Tap a pin for trip reports. Shaded countries are the ones we’ve hiked in.
Latest expedition · Nov 12 – Nov 21, 2024
Patagonia: the W Trek
Puerto Natales → Torres del Paine (W Trek) → El Calafate
Itinerary · Nov 12 – Nov 21, 2024
Five days on the W
- 5 days
- 12 places
- $295 on the ground
- 1
Day 1 · Tue, Nov 12
Puerto Natales gear-up
2:00 PM – 7:00 PM$60- Puerto Natales
- Erratic Rock
Rent trekking poles and a stove; the free 3 p.m. talk at Erratic Rock is gold.
- 2
Day 2 · Wed, Nov 13
Base of the Towers
7:00 AM – 6:00 PM$35- Hotel Las Torres
- Chileno
- Mirador Base Torres
12 miles round trip, the last hour is a boulder scramble. Go early for calm air.
- 3
Day 3 · Thu, Nov 14
Along Lake Nordenskjöld
8:00 AM – 3:00 PM$40- Los Cuernos
- Lake Nordenskjöld
The wind here is famous for a reason. Pack a buff.
- 4
Day 4 · Fri, Nov 15
French Valley
6:30 AM – 6:30 PM$40- Campamento Italiano
- Mirador Británico
Hanging glaciers crack and thunder all day. The longest, best day.
- 5
Day 5 · Sat, Nov 16
Grey Glacier
8:00 AM – 5:00 PM$120- Paine Grande
- Refugio Grey
- Grey Glacier
Book the glacier kayak a day ahead; the ice is bluer up close.
Estimated on-the-ground cost$295
Trip budget
What the W cost us
- Stay$1,35033%
- Food$62015%
- Transport$1,48036%
- Activities$45011%
- Other$2005%
Two people, including the bus from Puerto Natales and the glacier kayak.

Destination guide · Chile
Torres del Paine
Granite towers, glaciers and wind
- Best time to visit
- October to April
- Daily budget
- $$$$ Pricey
- Visa for US citizens
- Visa-free up to 90 days
- Language
- Spanish
- Currency
- Chilean peso (CLP)
- Time zone
- America/Punta Arenas
Logbook
Seven years of trips
From the first overnight in the Sierra to the W Trek. Filter by year.
- 2026

Apr 20 – May 1, 2026
American Southwest Loop
Salt Lake City → Moab → Capitol Reef → Bryce → Zion → Monument Valley
- 12 days
- 2 destinations
- $3,400
- 2025

Nov 3 – Nov 14, 2025
Japan in Autumn Color
Tokyo → Hakone → Kyoto → Nara → Osaka
- 12 days
- 1 destination
- $6,200
- 2024

Nov 12 – Nov 21, 2024
Patagonia: the W Trek
Puerto Natales → Torres del Paine (W Trek) → El Calafate
- 10 days
- 1 destination
- $4,100

Jun 8 – Jun 24, 2024
Lisbon, Marrakech & the Greek Islands
Lisbon → Sintra → Marrakech → Athens → Santorini
- 17 days
- 3 destinations
- $5,400
- 2023

Feb 2 – Mar 1, 2023
From the Andes to the Cape
Lima → Cusco → Machu Picchu → Cape Town → Sydney
- 28 days
- 3 destinations
- $8,900
The pack
Our 3-season gear list
Base weight 14 lb. Tick it off as you pack, then print it for the trailhead.
0 of 28 packed— ready to go!
Go with a guide
Tours we’d trust with our lives
Small groups, certified guides, fair prices.
TourOur pickDolomites Hut-to-Hut, 6 days
Alta Via 1, Italy
4.9out of 5(412 reviews)
- Max 8 hikers
- Refugios included
- IFMGA guide
from$1,450/ person
See dates — Dolomites Hut-to-Hut, 6 days
TourBanff Backcountry Weekend
Banff National Park, Canada
4.8out of 5(286 reviews)
- Bear safety course
- Permits handled
from$690/ person
Check availability — Banff Backcountry Weekend
ExperienceDo this firstWilderness First Aid (16 h)
Boulder, Colorado
4.9out of 5(1,020 reviews)
- 2-year certification
- Hands-on scenarios
from$245course
Book a seat — Wilderness First Aid (16 h)Some links are affiliate links: we may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
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